Mt. Bhagirathi II Expedition (6,512 m)

Overview

If the Himalayan treks have become too familiar for your feet and you’re looking for something wilder that challenges your spirit – Bhagirathi Peaks might just be calling your name. Nestled deep in the heart of the Garhwal Himalayas in Uttarakhand, the Bhagirathi Peaks—Bhagirathi Massif I (6,856 m), II (6,512 m), and III (6,454 m), stands tall over the sacred Gangotri Glacier. Located in the Gangotri National Park, Bhagirathi II has the most accessible route compared to the other two peaks in this triad.

This expedition is a dramatic blend of climbing through granite cliffs, steep ice faces, and dizzying vertical drops, making it a technically demanding climb in the Indian Himalayas. This challenging yet rewarding climb starts from Gangotri to Bhojwasa and Nandanvan Base Camp, from where it unfolds to summit Bhagirathi II standing at 21,635 feet. Enroute it serves majestic views of Thalaysagar, Mt. Shivling which will make you feel like you are in a different realm. Spanning over 20 days the climb passes through crevasses, ice walls, and razor-sharp ridges and needs navigating tough terrains. It requires high-altitude endurance and technical mountaineering skills, hence this expedition is ideal for Experienced Climbers, who previously have trekked 5000m (16,000 ft) mountains.

Named after King Bhagirath, this peak is also rooted in spiritual importance. The best season to climb this peak is the pre-monsoon seasons of May and June and post-monsoon from September to early October. During these months the weather remains slightly predictable. 

To undertake the Bhagirathi II Expedition, you will need to obtain permission from the Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF). We at Himalayan Dream Treks arrange the expedition with everything you’d need – you’re in safe hands. This guide puts together all the necessary information.

Expedition History

Bhagirathi II was first summited by Austrian climbers Edi Ellmauthaler and Toni Messner via the northwest ridge in 1933. The first Indians to climb were Govinda Raj, Amar Ray, and two Sherpas, Karma and Gyalboo in 1966. To imagine they did it at a time when it wasn’t as developed as it is today, is remarkable. They for sure set a path for the future generations.

Bhagirathi I was first climbed by a Japanese expedition team in 1980 and for Bhagirathi III the first ascent by Britishers Colin Kirkus and Charles Warren reached the summit for the first time in 1933.

The mountain peak is named after King Bhagiratha, the legendary king of the Ikshvaku dynasty who is believed to have brought the River Ganga to Earth. In remembrance of that, the stream that comes out of Gangotri Glacier snout Gaumukh is called Bhagirathi, till it meets Alaknanda River at Devprayag. So, these peaks also hold spiritual importance.

The Bhagirathi Peaks are 6000m peaks, but they are extremely technical. The past expeditions have now attracted many climbers aiming for technical ascents. The steep rock faces, unstable ice cliffs, sudden weather changes, and the sheer remoteness of the Gangotri Glacier area contribute to this reputation. Moreover, it lies within Gangotri National Park, an ecologically sensitive zone. Expeditions today must comply with strict regulations, including waste management and eco-conscious practices, preserving the fragile Himalayan environment.

Itinerary

Day 1: Reach Gangotri

Drive Distance and Time: 245 km: 9-10 hours

Altitude: 10,300 ft

You will reach the spiritual town of Gangotri following the path of the Bhagirathi river via Uttarkashi. You could make a pit stop at Harshil Valley to admire the beauty. After you reach the town, rest for the day.

Day 2: Acclimatization at Gangotri

Any high-altitude climb is incomplete without Acclimatization for all the right reasons. It is to train your body and mind to be accustomed to the altitude, temperature and the conditions. This helps avoid adverse health conditions like AMS, HACE. You will also take this time to prepare yourself for the challenging expedition ahead. If interested, you could pay a visit to the temple in the evening.

Day 3: Gangotri to Bhojwasa

The trek begins from Gangotri and leads to Bhojwasa on a 14km trail. Bhojwasa in the local language means ‘land of birch trees’ so on this stretch you will be crossing the famous Himalayan Birch trees. It then leads to Chirbasa, with an impressive line of tall pine trees. The trek on this day follows the mighty Bhagirathi River.

After this the terrain gets barren, and you could expect to reach by early evening, where you will pitch tents by the river. As the day comes to a close, the sun goes behind the Bhagirathi range of peaks and the sky treats with a spread of stars. 

Day 4: Bhojwasa to Nandanvan

On this day, with an early morning start you will be crossing glacial moraines. The trek begins with an ascent to Gaumukh Parvat, which is the source of the holy Ganges.  After spending some time here you head towards Tapovan which is an expanse of meadows at the base of Mt. Shivling.

You will then climb along the magnificent views of Shivling peak and Bhagirathi range of peaks. After this you will trace your way towards Meru Glacier and reach Nandanvan via which is where the Gaumukh Glacier and Chaturangi Glacier meet. The campsite at Nandanvan serves breathtaking views of Mount Kedar Dome, Mount Meru and Mount Karcha Kund.

Day 5 to Day 17: Bhagirathi Expedition – Base Camp to the Summit

This is where the actual challenge begins from that will put you through a test of strength – both physical and mental. Bhagirathi II has 4 camps: Advanced Base Camp, Camp 1, Camp 2, and Summit Camp. High altitude climbs require a set routine of acclimatization to get the body used to the conditions at such heights. So, the expeditions follow rotation rounds between the base camps. The first round would be to ferry the load to the next campsite and come back to the earlier one to rest for the night.

The next day you climb up there and pitch tents. This ensures that you are slowly exposing your body to higher altitude environments and conditions to better adapt and avoid risk. After this you head to the Summit Camp and make an attempt to summit. After the successful summit of Bhagirathi Peak, you plan to descend tracing your way to the base camp, and then to Bhojwasa and Gangotri. 

Considering this is a technical terrain, every step needs to be taken with caution. As the surface is fully covered with ice, watch out for crevasses, to avoid falling into them. Given the complexity, it necessitates fixing ropes and ladders and use of equipment like ice axe and pulley throughout this trail. We at Himalayan Dream Treks, provide high quality helmets and all the trekking and climbing equipment you need to ensure your safety.

As the weather conditions are unpredictable, you would have to adapt and constantly readjust your plans accordingly for the summit push.

Day 18 and Day 19: Reserve Day

These are kept as reserve days to help adjust with the bad weather conditions that can potentially put you off schedule, during the expedition.

Day 20: Return from Gangotri and Onward Journey

This marks the last day of the journey, where you will come back with a lot from where you started – an experience that will stay with you for a very long time. Because to climb is to surrender to the unknown, one step at a time.

Expedition Package

FAQs