Mt. Shivling Expedition (6,543 M)

Overview

Located in the Uttarkashi district in Uttarakhand, Mt. Shivling rises like a divine flame above the Gangotri Glacier. Part of the Garhwal Himalayas, this sacred snow-draped peak lies within the Gangotri National Park. The mountain peak is named after the Hindu deity Lord Shiva, due to its vertical pyramid structure resembling the Shiva Lingam. It holds an immense spiritual significance. Towering at 6,543 metres, it is also referred to as the ‘Matterhorn of the Himalayas’. 

Shivling Peak stands opposite to the Bhagirathi massif, separated by the Gangotri Glacier, which is the primary source of the holy Ganga river. The peak rises from the Tapovan meadow, a high-altitude alpine grassland known for its surreal beauty and spiritual energy. Tapovan acts as the base camp for the expedition and is one of the most revered high-altitude campsites in the Himalayas, surrounded by giant peaks like Meru, Bhagirathi massif, and Kedar Dome. 

If you want to put your mountaineering skills to test, the Shivling expedition is a great place to start. Spanning over 20 days, This expedition is an adventure in its truest sense. The route demands technical expertise, mental resilience, and physical strength navigating tough terrains. The trek starts at Gangotri, and leads to Bhojwasa, Gaumukh, and Tapovan which is the base camp. The mountain is known for its steep ice and rock faces, complex ridges, and glacier crossings. The most used West Ridge route is highly challenging and technical, so this expedition is not for beginners. It is ideal for experienced climbers who have already trekked 5000 metres peaks. 

Mt Shivling is not only a technical climb but also a spiritual journey. The mountain is believed to be a manifestation of Lord Shiva himself, standing guard over the source of the holy Ganges, which mythologically is said to have flowed from Shiva’s matted hair.

To undertake the Shivling Expedition, you will need to obtain permission from the Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF). We at Himalayan Dream Treks arrange the expedition with everything you’d need – you’re in safe hands. This guide puts together all the necessary information you need to know about the expedition.

Expedition History

A German expedition led by R. Schwarzgruber concluded that there was no feasible route to summit Mt.Shivling due to its steep vertical climb and serac barriers. But like they say, everything seems impossible until it’s done. Shivling was first climbed in 1974 via the west ridge, by a ITBP (Indo-Tibetan Border Police) team led by Hukam Singh. After this expedition many other routes were established to climb the peak. All of the routes have threats due to the challenging terrain needing extra caution. 

The North Pillar route was climbed in 1993 by Hans Kammerlander and Christoph Hainz. In 2005, Basanta Singha Roy and Debashis Biswas became the first successful summiters from India. Shirshendu Mukherjee became the youngest person in the world to have climbed the mountain at the age of 19 as a part of an Indian expedition.

Valery Rozov famously known for his jumps from world’s highest peaks made the BASE jump from Mt. Shivling in 2012, wearing a wingsuit. However he died while jumping off Ama Dablam mountain in Nepal.

Itinerary

Day 1: Reach Gangotri

Drive Distance and Time: 245 km: 9-10 hours

Altitude: 10,300 ft

You will drive from Dehradun and reach the spiritual town of Gangotri located on the banks of the river Bhagirathi. After you arrive by evening, hit the bed and take rest. 

Day 2: Acclimatization at Gangotri

Any high-altitude climb is incomplete without Acclimatization for all the right reasons. It is to train your body and mind to be accustomed to the altitude, temperature and the conditions. This helps avoid adverse health conditions like AMS, HACE. You will also take this time to prepare yourself for the challenging expedition ahead. You can take a walk around the town and pay a visit to the temple in the evening.

Day 3: Gangotri to Bhojwasa

On day 3 you start with a 14km trek from Gangotri to Bhojwasa. Bhojwasa in the local language means ‘land of birch trees’ so on this stretch you will be crossing the famous Himalayan Birch trees. It then leads to Chirbasa, with an impressive line of tall pine trees. The trek on this day follows the mighty Bhagirathi River. After this the terrain gets barren, and you could expect to reach by early evening, where you will pitch tents by the river. As the day comes to a close, the sun goes behind the Bhagirathi range of peaks and the sky treats with a spread of stars. 

Day 4: Bhojwasa to Tapovan

On this day, you trek 13km from Bhojwasa along the Bhagirathi river till you reach Gaumukh, which means mouth of cow and is the source of the holy Ganges.  After spending some time here you head towards Tapovan which is an expanse of alpine meadows. The beautiful sights of Tapovan will leave you wondering why it was the chosen spot for ‘tapasya’ (meditation) by the sages. Tapovan acts as the base camp of Mt. Shivling. You will also see magnificent views of the Bhagirathi range of peaks. 

Day 5 to Day 17: Shivling Expedition – Base Camp to the Summit

On Day 5, you acclimatize at the base camp which lies at 4,460 metres, while resting your body and letting it adapt to the conditions at high altitudes. 

From Day 6 is where the real challenge begins that will put you through a test of strength. Shivling has 4 camps: Advanced Base Camp, Camp 1, Camp 2, and Summit Camp. High altitude climbs require a set routine of acclimatization to get the body used to the conditions at such heights. So, the expeditions follow rotation rounds between the base camps. 

The first round would be to ferry the load to the Advanced base Camp and come back to base camp to rest for the night. The next day you climb back up there and pitch tents as part of acclimatization rotations. This ensures that you are slowly exposing your body to higher altitude environments and conditions to better adapt and avoid risk. After this you set up Camp I and then push to high camp via West Ridge to establish Camp II.

After this you head to the Summit Camp and make an attempt to summit. After the successful summit of Shivling Peak at 6,543 metres, you come back to Camp II. And then descend tracing your way to the base camp, and then to Bhojwasa and Gangotri. 

Considering this is a technical terrain, every step needs to be taken with caution. As the surface is fully covered with ice, watch out for crevasses to avoid falling into them. Given the complexity, it necessitates fixing ropes and ladders and use of equipment like ice axe and pulley throughout this trail. We at Himalayan Dream Treks, provide high quality helmets and all the trekking and climbing equipment you need to ensure your safety.

As the weather conditions are unpredictable, you would have to adapt and constantly readjust your plans accordingly for the summit push.

Day 18 and Day 19: Reserve Day

These are kept as reserve days to help adjust with the bad weather conditions that can potentially put you off schedule, during the expedition.

Day 20: Return from Gangotri and Onward Journey

This marks the last day of the journey, where you will come back with a lot from where you started – an experience that will stay with you for a very long time. Because to climb is to surrender to the unknown, one step at a time.

Expedition Package

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